Isla Mujeres

At eight kilometres from top to bottom, Isla Mujeres is the perfect size for getting about by scooter. But classic resort-style, most of the tourists seem to prefer golf carts, even though at US$45 a day they probably cost as much as hiring a car.

We passed through the towering hotels of Cancun on our way from the airport, and so were pretty happy when we discovered the littler, prettier Islas Mujeres offshore.

The wealthy Cancunites daytrip over here. On our first night, dining at an open-air restaurant on North Beach, we watched a couple finish off their pescado (fish) then hitch up their trou and wade out to a boat anchored 50m offshore. Their assistants helped them on board, handed them big white towels, and then they cruised off into the sunset. But then, the sunsets are fantastic, as you can see ...

While Isla Mujeres is still very tourist-oriented, it is cheaper and simpler than Cancun. Only a couple of hotels are more than two storeys.

Our hotel room is big and cool and right next to a beautiful swimming beach, and we are paying only US$60 a night. Though food is cheap, we have been saving further by cooking in the hotel kitchen. Last night was chicken marinaded in lime juice, garlic and jalapeno, on rice, with a tomato and coriander salad, and guacamole on nacho chips. So we're not starving, ma.

The flipside of being less developed is that today, Sunday, very little is open. So here we are in an Internet cafe (the air-conditioning is broken and sweat is dripping on the computer keyboard) replying to emails and updating the blog.

A few more days here. We may update again - but then, what's the hurry? Manana, manana. There's beaches to lie on, water to be swum in, books to finally be read. Kiri, I've finally finished the Michael King history of New Zealand you gave me - two weeks after leaving New Zealand indefinitely.